It was in 1904, when pocketwatches were still in style for gentlemen, that pioneering aviator and bon vivant Alberto Santos-Dumont approached his friend, Louis Cartier, about fashioning for him a timepiece that he could wear, and check the time, while keeping both hands on the controls of his aircraft. The watch that Replica Cartier made for Santos-Dumont, with its distinctive square bezel, is not only regarded by most historians as the first men’s wristwatch; it was also the progenitor of today’s Cartier Santos, one of the watch-and-jewelry giant’s most enduring and influential timepiece collections. This year, at SIHH 2018, Cartier unveiled a revamped Cartier Santos collection for the modern era.
At first glance, the new Santos de Cartier models look very much like their predecessors: the square-shaped bezel, inspired by Parisian architectural design of the era, remains intact, along with the bezel‘s eight visible screws and the dial’s elegant Roman numerals. But a closer look reveals a sleeker, more ergonomic case and bezel shape, and one that flows more seamlessly from the lugs to the straps and bracelets.
About those straps and bracelets: they represent another decidedly modernized feature of the new Santos watches, and one that has become a growing trend among fake luxury watch. They are engineered with Cartier’s new patent-pending QuickSwitch system, which enables the wearer to simply press a hidden button to quickly remove and replace each bracelet or strap. Other brands, like Vacheron Constantin and Hublot, have introduced similar self-strap-changing technology, but Carter goes them one better with another patent-pending mechanism, called SmartLink, which it uses on its metal bracelets. This allows a Santos wearer to re-size his watch easily without using a tool (or paying a watch repairman to do it for him). At the touch of a button located on each link, its attachment bar is unlatched and the link can be added or removed.
The m0vement inside the replica watch case (two sizes are available, 35.1 x 45.9 and 39.8 x 47.5) is also decidedly contemporary: Cartier ‘s self-winding Caliber 1847 MC (the numeral represents the year of Cartier’s founding), which features anti-magnetic nickel phosphorus components in the escapement and movement mechanisms, along with a shield made from a paramagnetic alloy. Together, they render the movement effectively resistant to the powerful magnetic fields a watch encounters during daily wear.
In addition to the models outfitted with the automatic 1847 MC caliber, Cartier is offering skeletonized versions of the new Santos, powered by another in-house-manufactured movement, the manual-winding Caliber 9619 MC, which is notable for the large Roman numerals (specifically the “III,” “VI,” “IX” and “XII”) formed by its bridges.
First introduced at Baselworld 2017, the Omega ReplicaSeamster Aqua Terra 150M Worldtimer collection is growing by three new iterations, one in titanium and two in stainless steel. While staying true to their original looks, they are distinguished by subtle updates, including a new rubber strap with a woven pattern.
All three versions have a diameter of 43mm, a height of 14.1mm, and a water-resistance of 150 meters. Equipped with ceramic bezels, they are driven by Omega’s self-winding Co-Axial Master Chronometer caliber 8938, which is visible through a sapphire case back.
A detailed depiction of the Earth as seen from above the North Pole takes center stage on the dials. The detailed map is created by laser-ablating on a grade 5 titanium surface and framed by a 24-hour indication. Although impossible to see with the naked eye, this entire replica watches scape is domed to mimic the curvature of the Earth.
Omega’s home city of Bienne Switzerland is among the global destinations displayed on the world-time rings. All cities, with the exception of the British capital, are colored yellow gold for the stainless-steel versions. London is shown in red to highlight Greenwich Mean Time, now more formally known as Universal Time Coordinated (UTC). The indices and hands on the stainless steel executions are crafted from 18K Moonshine Gold.
In the titanium version, the entire black and gray dial was created by laser technology. There are no applications except for the word London, and even here the red lacquer was applied by hand.
Breitling Replica continues its collaboration with two iconic motorcycle brands by launching two Top Time chronographs, both equipped with the in-house caliber B01: the Top Time B01 Deus and the Top Time B01 Triumph. This automatic movement holds a COSC chronometer certificate and offers approximately 70 hours of power reserve.
Top Time B01 Deus_Ref. AB01765A1B1X1_RGB
The Top Time B01 Deus is the third special edition model created together with iconic Australian motorcycle brand Deus ex Machina. It features a black dial with white counters and red chronograph hands and two segments in red and orange on the tachymeter scale.
Top Time B01 Deus_Ref. AB01765A1B1X1_RGB
The Deus brand logo can be found below the Breitling retro logo, and the Deus motto “In Benzin Veritas”, graces the tachymeter scale. Also noteworthy is that the 41mm stainless steel case is equipped with a sapphire crystal case back for the first time.
Top Time B01 Triumph_Ref. AB01764A1C1X1_RGB
This also applies to the Top Time B01 Triumph where the B01 is revealed through the caseback, with its column-wheel being clearly visible. The vertical clutch, which prevents the stop hand from jumping when the chronograph is started, is hidden from view.
Already in 2022, Breitling Replica Watches released a similar Top Time with the British motorcycle manufacturer Triumph, which also featured an ice-blue “Zorro” dial. Collectors nicknamed the model as such because of the quarter circles at 3 and 9 o’clock, which contrast with those at 6 and 12 o’clock, recalling the mask of the famous avenger.
Top Time B01 Triumph_Ref. AB01764A1C1X1_RGB
With the ice blue dial color, the brand logos at 6 and 12 o’clock, and the sub dials in the form of rounded squares, it looks similar to the 2022 version of the first Top Time Triumph.
The technical specifications are the same as for the Top Time B01 Deus: the 41 mm stainless steel watch is COSC certified and water resistant to 100 meters.
Rolex Replicarevised its Submariner collection in 2020 and unleashed an extraordinary demand for its Oyster model with a green bezel. Our test from the WatchTime Archives looks at this newest edition, with its modified case and new movement, to see if it lives up to the hype.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner Date LV (Ref. 126610LV)
Spend any time at all at a Rolex dealer and someone will come in and ask for the new Rolex Submariner with a green bezel — to no avail. Demand exceeds the supply many times over, intensifying the hype around this model. And this in turn is reflected in the prices set by traders. The green Submariner has overtaken the Daytona and the GMT-Master II “Pepsi” as the most sought-after Rolex model. This is no artificial shortage. Rolex simply cannot build enough watches to satisfy all the potential customers — true not only for steel versions but also for the steel-and-gold and all-gold variants as well.
But why is the hype around the green version by far the greatest, even though every Submariner model has been updated? For one, it is the only steel version that is visibly different from its predecessors. The “Hulk,” which it replaces, has a green sunburst dial in addition to the green bezel. The dial of the new model is black. Rolex has revived a color combination that preceded the Hulk, which existed from 2003 to 2010 and was known by the nickname “Kermit,” which had a black dial and green aluminum bezel inlay. A second reason is that these two green models were already much more popular than their black counterparts in the Submariner collection. Interestingly, Rolex has also returned to the earlier, more elegant case shape seen with the Kermit. The “Maxi” case with its broad lugs and large crown guard was introduced with the launch of the ceramic bezel.
Green generations: the 2010 “Hulk” with its “Maxi” case (left). the new LV from 2020 (center), and the “Kermit” from 2003 with aluminum bezel (right).
Larger Oyster
Initially, the dimensions have been a source of some confusion. The new Rolex model specs show a larger case, at 41 mm rather than 40. But when the two models are placed side by side, the new watch almost looks smaller. In fact, the Oyster case has grown only minimally, from 40.3 mm to 40.8 mm. Much smaller lugs, however, make it more streamlined than its predecessor. The Oyster bracelet now measures 21 mm between the lugs, rather than 20 mm, and the clasp is also 1 mm wider.
All in all, and without direct comparison, the differences are hardly noticeable except for the more delicate lugs. Except for slightly broader hands, the dial has undergone very few changes, unless it’s the Submariner LV, like our test watch a nod to the reference number 126610LV, which stands for lunette verte (green bezel). The shiny black dial on the standard model stands in contrast to the green sunburst finish on the dial of its predecessor. Which is a better fit? That remains a matter of taste. The Hulk was clearly an extrovert, while the new version has a more modest character and looks more like a tool watch. The color of the ceramic bezel remains the same while the older Kermit watch is markedly different due to its darker aluminum track.
The practical folding clasp with finely incremented extension piece is now 1 mm wider than before.
Different Caliber
Also new is the small crown on the dial between the words “Swiss made,” which stands, as we’ve seen with other Rolex models, for the newer Caliber 3235. Rolex altered more than 90 percent of the components of its 3135 caliber and was awarded 14 patents related to its development. In particular, shock absorption and reliability have been improved. Winding is more efficient and builds up a power reserve more quickly, thanks in part to the new ball bearing rotor. Now some people may be able to hear the rotor, which used to be silent.
The most important factor for the wearer is the increased power reserve, from 48 hours to 70 hours. Rolex achieved this increase with a thinner barrel wall, which permits the use of a longer mainspring, as well as through the innovative Chronergy escapement, which increases the efficiency of the Swiss lever escapement by 15 percent. This is made possible by the modified geometry and skeletonized form, which reduces its weight. The nickel-phosphorous alloy escape wheel, made using the LIGA process (UV lithography, electroforming, molding), is unaffected by magnetic fields and the new balance staff also improves antimagnetic properties. The blue Parachrom hairspring made of niobium-zirconium alloy has already been used in other models, as has the Paraflex shock absorber. End shake in the balance can be adjusted with a screw, and the Breguet overcoil on the hairspring ensures the constant action of the hairspring, as well as the free-sprung fine regulation using the Microstella nuts on the inside of the balance wheel.
Although the new caliber, as always with the Oyster models, operates beneath a steel caseback, it is decorated with a sunburst finish on the cutout rotor and on the automatic bridge, a line finish on steel components, some beveled edges and polished screw heads.
Caliber 3235 has a power reserve of 70 hours.
Super Chronometer?
Rolex set strict regulating specifications in 2015 with the goal of giving new life to the words “Superlative Chronometer.” This designation first appeared on the dial in the late 1950s when Rolex Replica watches models ran even more accurately than was necessary to earn a chronometer certificate. (Chronometer agencies later discontinued this highest category.) In addition to the chronometer certificate from the independent Swiss testing agency COSC, which tests the movement, Rolex watchmakers adjust the cased movement to even more strict values of between -2 and +2 seconds per day.
Our test watch did not quite achieve these values on our Witschi timing machine. It was measured in every position and showed an average rate of -2.3 seconds per day. The rate at individual positions remained close, however, between -1 and -4 seconds per day.
68 Years Old, but Still Modern
There was really no need to improve the general design. Although the watch was first designed in 1953, and has undergone only minimal changes over the years, the Submariner design continues to look both robust and modern. It certainly doesn’t look its age. This is due primarily to the smooth, reflective ceramic bezel, the shiny black dial and the flat reflective sapphire crystal. They give the Submariner the elegance that makes it possible to wear this watch as easily with a suit as with a T-shirt and jeans.
Unfortunately, these features — especially the flat, reflective crystal — affect legibility, which is otherwise excellent, also due to the antiglare coating on the crystal’s inner side. Because of the magnifying Cyclops lens, the date can only be read from the front. But the high magnification of the lens allows many far-sighted people to see the date without wearing their glasses.
Replica Panerai Radiomir 3 Days Acciaio Brevettato
Among all models Panerai has published in recent years, PAM 687 is very outstanding. It is a vintage PAM that was made to pay tribute to Radiomir 3646, which was made for the Italian Navy in the 1930s. At that time, Panerai manufactured several Radiomir watches with unique 12-sided bezel that has engravings of “OFFICINE PANERAI BREVETTATO”, which mean Panerai patented.
Replica Panerai PAM 687 Brown Dial
Like genuine PAM 687, this replica has been integrated with a lot of vintage elements. Let us look at its case first, this 47mm case is big, but it is only 12.5mm thick because the watch is equipped with an manual winding movement. Radiomir is the earliest diving watch Panerai made for the Italian Navy, now this PAM 687 used the same cushion-shaped Radiomir case, 12-sided bezel is like the case back of modern Panerai. On the case, every corner is smoothly polished, there are removable wire lugs.
Replica Panerai PaM 687 Crown
The dial reflects the essence of this vintage PAM. First, it uses a gradual brown color, which looks like being oxidized and faded. The sandwiched dial has cream yellow luminous material applied on the bottom plate, the hour markers that include digits 3, 6, 9 and 12 are skeletonized. Two hands on the center of the dial, this is also one of the iconic features on vintage Panerai Radiomir watches. The hands have golden edge, which is perfectly in line with the brown color of the main dial. PAM 685 is also such a type of vintage Radiomir, but it has a black dial.
About the movement, ZF factory put a Super Clone P.3000 inside the replica, which is a manual winding movement and beats 21600 times per hour. The inside mechanism could be appreciated through crystal case back. The best and most stable P.3000 used in replica Panerai watches is made by ZF, look at the jewels’ color, it is very close to genuine, the balance wheel is also set in a right position, the golden balance wheel features original shock absorber and its bridge has two ends fixed on the base plate, which greatly improves the stability of the whole movement.
Replica Swiss watches
The band is distressed look, it is in brown color, very close to the faded brown tone on dial. There is the classic OP Logo on each pair of the leather band. Polished buckle is Pre-V style with “PANERAI” engraving in same depth as genuine watch. By the way, the replica watch has been tested 30m waterproof.
T0059 Engraving
After reading the review, have you known how many vintage features used by this Radiomir PAM 687?